Y/Project Out, Maison Margiela In

Martens for Margiela

Jan 30, 2025

This just in: the torch has officially been passed from John Galliano to Glenn Martens. That’s right—the designer who revived Diesel and turned it into a cultural phenomenon will now be at the helm of Maison Margiela.

I had to talk about this one.

Back in October 2024, news broke that Martens had stepped down from his role as Creative Director of Paris-based label Y/Project after 11 years. Later that month, the brand was placed into receivership, and by January 9, 2025, Y/Project announced its closure after failing to secure a buyer (deep, deeeeeep sigh—if I could have rescued the brand, I would). Unfortunately, it was yet another casualty of the pandemic’s lasting impact and the broader slowdown in luxury spending. But that’s a conversation for another day.

Y/Project—Gone, but never forgotten.

Martens’ tenure at Y/Project cemented his place in fashion history. Known for his experimental, deconstructed aesthetic and twisted constructions (yes, I was proudly part of the cult following), he transformed the brand into an underground favorite.

There were already whispers in the fashion world that Martens would be the next to take over at Margiela. I wondered how his distinct vision would merge with the house’s legacy. And let’s be real—following Galliano is no small feat. But Martens isn’t a rookie. If anyone is up for the challenge, it’s him. He fits Margiela’s mold—bold, unconventional, and always pushing boundaries.

Renzo Rosso, Chairman of OTB (Margiela’s parent company), made it official, stating:
"After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John [Galliano], who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture."

With this appointment, Martens will now be leading two powerhouse brands—Diesel and Margiela. So, what can we expect? Let me break down his journey and signature style.

Looking Back: Martens's Evolution

Born in Bruges, Belgium—a country that’s given us icons like Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten, and Martin Margiela himself—Martens didn’t initially set out to be a fashion designer.

He first studied interior architecture, stumbling upon fashion almost by accident. With nothing but a few sketches, he applied to Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and not only got in but graduated first in his class.

Post-graduation, he landed a role at Jean Paul Gaultier, working as a junior designer for the women’s pre-collection and Gaultier’s menswear label, G2. In 2012, he launched his own label, showing at Paris Fashion Week for three seasons before joining Y/Project.

At Y/Project, he first served as an assistant to the brand’s founder, Yohan Serfaty. After Serfaty’s passing in 2013, his business partner, Gilles Elalouf, convinced Martens to take over. Then, in 2020, Diesel came calling, and he was appointed its Artistic Director.

The Martens Signature: What to Expect at Margiela

It’s Not Always About “Beauty”

"I’m not interested in beauty," Martens once told NSS Magazine. "That’s not my goal. It’s always the process that leads to the product and the surprise effect. I like to surprise people and surprise myself first with something unexpected."

His Belgian roots play a role in that. "Belgium isn’t like Italy, where even the smallest towns look like they’re from a fairy tale. It’s grey, hostile, brutalist. So we look for beauty in unexpected places—by deconstructing and reconstructing things. That’s my approach to fashion."

Sound familiar? Margiela’s entire ethos has been built on challenging conventional beauty.

A Penchant for Deconstruction and Reconstruction

Martens attributes his love for deconstructing garments to his background in interior architecture. “At first, my clothes looked like boxes—everything was super stiff. My first skirt was basically a pizza box,” he told WWD in 2019.

His experimental construction methods align seamlessly with Margiela’s legacy of reworking, reshaping, and repurposing garments.

Glenn Martens Y/Project collections through time. Images: Giovanni Giannoni via Vogue Runway | Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com via Vogue Runway

Experimental, Yet Wearable

Despite his avant-garde approach, Martens has a unique ability to strike a balance between conceptual and wearable fashion.

For his take on Diesel’s Red Tag capsule in 2018, he leaned into imperfection. "The slogan ‘Go with the flaw’ was so strong," he told Vogue. "I really wanted to do a collection based on mistakes. The buttoning is completely wrong. The waist is 20 centimeters wide—like a baby garment. The shape is strong and triangular, so if you fully button a jacket, you literally cannot wear it!"

Fast forward to his Spring/Summer 2024 show at Milan Fashion Week, and he took experimental fashion to the masses—literally, by inviting 7,000 fans. The collection featured shredded jersey layered over sheer fabric to mimic peeling paint, collaged fanny packs turned into pants, and dresses handmade from shredded denim and burned mesh. Some models were even caked in greyish-ochre mud—a beauty treatment? Perhaps.

He’s Dipped a Toe in Couture

Martens isn’t new to the couture world either. In 2022, he was invited back to Jean Paul Gaultier for a one-off haute couture collection. He focused on exaggerated, sculptural gowns, a skill set that will undoubtedly serve him well at Margiela.