Mugler Makes an Electrifying Return to the Paris Runway
Mugler returns to the runway for the first time in 3 years in show stopping style.
Now… it was only right I wrote my first Paris Haute Couture Week (PHCW) article on one of my all-time favorite fashion houses, MUGLER.
The electrifying brand returned to the runway for the first time in 3 years to showcase its Fall Winter 2022/23 collection, marking it as one of the most highly anticipated shows this season. The last time Mugler participated in PHCW was in 2020 before the pandemic and in 2022, the event was overshadowed by the unfortunate death of visionary French designer and Mugler founder, Manfred Thierry Mugler, on January 23rd, 2022.
So many aspects of the Mugler show made it one of the most dynamic presentations this season, but before diving into that, let’s talk about the man who has ushered in a new era for the femme fatale, and the brand’s appointed Creative Director, Casey Cadwallader.
Casey Cadwallader is an American fashion designer and has been the Creative Director of the luxury French fashion powerhouse Mugler, since 2018. What’s so fascinating about Casey is that he didn’t take a traditional route into the fashion world. He graduated from Cornell University with a degree in architecture. However, one thing I have constantly noticed is that architects make EXCELLENT fashion designers. If you pay close attention, you will notice that Casey’s designs are informed by architecture, from sculptural tailoring to his cutting-edge techniques. In addition to Casey, designers such as Thierry Mugler, Virgil Abloh, Pierre Balmain, Gianni Versace (of exalted memory), and Tom Ford all have architectural training.
Architecture may seem like an unorthodox approach to studying fashion, however, architects and fashion designers follow kindred work standards, geometry, and balance to create forms and structures. Both worlds are steeped in design parallels! As Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is architecture, it’s a question of proportions”. And According to Amarissa (😉), “Fashion Touches Everything”.
Now .. let’s get into the show!
It’s clear that Casey brings his own unique flair to the Mugler brand, while simultaneously paying homage to the essence and flavor of the brand and staying true to the brand’s DNA.
The show was held in the Grande Halle de la Villette which is within the Parc de la Villette, the third largest park on the edge of Paris. While this show was held during Paris Haute Couture Week, this was not a couture collection, but a ready-to-wear collection. There were no gowns. Designs ranged from pants to bodysuits to jackets with broad shoulders and clinched waists, incorporating mainly leather detailing and lace trimmings on futuristic silhouettes.
True to Casey’s style, the show had a cinematic flair with models being filmed by a camera while on moving stands. Over the past few years, Casey has mastered the art of unleashing Mugler’s essence through film, constantly giving us mini-movie-like trailers of each collection.
The artistry for this show was impeccable; so bold and full of drama, which made the show interesting and exciting to watch. The models looked like they were having so much fun! And I feel like that’s what’s missing from many fashion shows. You HAVE to have fun with it and try out-of-the-box techniques that keep the audience enthralled.
The casting was also on point. The show featured many “it girls” and was very diverse, which I noticed was the element missing from many of the Haute Couture shows this season. 90s supermodels, current models, and stars such as Debra Shaw, Eva Herzigova, Shalom Harlow, Amber Valetta, Anok Yai, Paloma Elsesser, Adut Akech, Arca, Dominique Jackson, and Aweng Chuol are just some of the stars who walked this runway, with Anok Yai opening the show. Everyone knows it’s not a Mugler show without a star-studded runway.
Sitting front row was rapper JT from the City Girls, who made waves with her bag-stealing skit with Arca. JT also stunned the crowd in a beautiful and edgy FW23 Mugler by Casey Cadwallader design.
All in all, I believe Casey did an amazing job bringing the Mugler brand back to the runway and making sure the show was dynamic, fun, and diverse, true to a traditional Mugler runway show.
What are your thoughts on the direction Casey is taking the Mugler brand? Do you believe he is staying true to the Mugler that you remember and love? If not, should he?
FASHION WEEK
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