Down to the Nitty Gritty: Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 24 Haute Couture Show
A guest runway report by Trapetas McGill.
Designer Nicolas Di Felice, the fifth designer to be tapped for a one-season collaboration at Jean Paul Gaultier, was the creative force behind this past season's couture show. At forty-one, the Belgian artist and creative director of Courrèges brings a fresh perspective to one of fashion's most revered houses.
The show, although held in Jean Paul Gaultier’s headquarters, was little about the heritage brand and more about the undeniable talent of Felice. Much like Gaultier, Felice is a breakout star.
Known for his minimalistic design with a chic edge, Felice has been described by Elle’s Kristen Bateman as the “master of sexy minimalism for It-girls and fashion purists alike.” His ability to strip garments down to their bare bones was on full display.
In stark contrast to the vibrant designs of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring Summer 23 Couture collection by Haider Ackermann, Felice’s approach centered on a more neutral and subdued palette. The revolving door of talented and highly decorated designers reinterpreting Gaultier’s legacy has proven fruitful.
The contrast between the two collections is daring, and the Fall 2024 Couture show undoubtedly proves Felice's stardom.
A Star is Born
Jean Paul Gaultier is a fashion house renowned for its unconventional designs, from genderless clothing to sailor suits and razor-sharp tailoring. After all, this is the house that created Madonna's iconic cone dress for her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour.
It’s fitting that Gaultier tapped Felice for their fifth guest appearance.
Felice is no stranger to couture. In addition to his role as the creative director of the sixty-year-old Parisian brand Courrèges, Felice has worked with Balenciaga, Dior, and Louis Vuitton. He worked over a decade alongside Nicolas Ghesquiere, creative director of womenswear at Louis Vuitton, arriving as an intern in 2008 and later working his way up.
Attention to Details
Felice is the grandchild of Italian immigrants who settled in Belgium. He grew up in Charleroi which was named the “ugliest city in the world” or the “Black Land” due to its industrial heritage from the 19th century.
Charleroi is known for its neoclassical architecture, streamlined modern designs (a departure from Art Deco), and modernist elements. The city is famously stripped down, having been a prominent coal mining town during its glory days.
Why is any of this relevant?
Felice’s design ethos, shaped by his upbringing in Charleroi, was evident in this collection, where the influence of his hometown is palpable in his minimalist design style and aesthetic.
One could argue that Charleroi epitomizes modern minimalism. It serves as Felice’s muse. The raw, exposed, and minimalistic garments he presented mirrored the stark, stripped-down aesthetic of his hometown.
The Collection
The first six looks of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 24 couture show featured models gliding down the runway with faces covered by intricately assembled black gowns. These designs seemed to pay homage to Charleroi’s dark past, including the Marcinelle Mining disaster that claimed over two hundred lives.
Felice describes the collection as a “hook and eye, undress, and gazar.” He spoke candidly with Vogue about not being a “fan of decoration.”
Felice has proclaimed “Both my grandparents moved from Italy to work in the mines, so [Charleroi is] intense and post-industrial.” For Jean Paul Gaultier's show, Felice moves his audience from the industrial to the post-industrial with each passing design.
Felice’s collection moved from black to earth tones like blues, grays, and nudes, demonstrating his expertise in tailoring and his progression as a designer. The later looks showcased modern, minimalist garments that speak to his understanding of contemporary fashion.
Looks eleven, twelve, eighteen, nineteen, twenty, twenty-one, and twenty-two, while maintaining elegance, showcase minimalist yet detailed garments that underscore Felice's grasp of contemporary evolution.
In all, this show is a beautiful motif of homage, culture, and lineage, solidifying Felice’s place in the fashion world.
FASHION WEEK
Edited by Amarissa, Founder & Editor in Chief of Fashion Talk.
For updates, follow Fashion Talk on Instagram.
