Crafting a Legacy, Creating a Life: The Artistry of McQueen and Margiela
A closer look at the innovative spirit of now former creative director Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano of Maison Margiela.
Now let’s get into the shows…
Passion, vision, and an unwavering commitment to precision—these words encapsulate the essence of designers Sarah Burton and John Galliano.
Sarah Burton and John Galliano, two luminaries of the fashion world, share a common thread that defines their greatness as designers. For the past thirteen years as Creative Director, Sarah Burton, with her renowned designs, has crafted a legacy at Alexander McQueen that resonates with the late founder's visionary spirit. Her creative flair has subtly shifted the house's aesthetic while preserving its iconoclastic essence. It's a journey that's seen Burton draw inspiration from the world of apiculture and create collections that weave together the divine imagery of popes, saints, and angels.
On the other side of the runway, we have John Galliano, a true fashion icon renowned for his flamboyant and theatrical shows. His designs are a mesmerizing blend of historical costume, fantasy, and luxurious fabrics. Galliano possesses a rare talent for intricate detailing, and his runway spectacles are nothing short of breathtaking. At Maison Margiela, he takes the house codes and infuses them with his distinct and captivating style, giving the brand life.
These two designers share a profound ability to transcend the ordinary, creating fashion moments that are nothing short of extraordinary.
Sarah Burton’s Fearless Reign at McQueen
Following the tragic loss of designer Lee Alexander McQueen, the fashion world questioned whether anyone could possibly step into his shoes. Surely it was impossible? After all, he was celebrated for his precise tailoring, penchant for historicism, and visionary designs that frequently pushed the boundaries of convention. McQueen fearlessly delved into themes ranging from romanticism to sexuality and mortality, often infusing his collections with deeply personal elements that were drawn from his own life and experiences.
But they should have never doubted Sarah Burton. After all, she had worked closely with McQueen until his passing in 2010. When she was named Creative Director, Burton fearlessly assumed the reins of the company. She assembled a devoted team, and instead of rejecting or merely imitating McQueen’s aesthetic, she embarked on a journey to comprehend it and infuse it with her unique spirit. Her efforts extended beyond form and pattern; she captured the very essence of McQueen's vision, propelling it onto the global stage.
Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2024: What Was the Theme?
September 30th marked a poignant and deeply emotional moment as Sarah Burton unveiled her last show, titled "Anatomy II," for Alexander McQueen. The theme wonderfully celebrated the female form.
The show began with Kaia Gerber gracing the runway in a striking black wool mini dress, expertly tailored with dramatic slashes at the shoulders, along the bodice, and laced intricately down the spine with blood-red cording. The grand finale saw none other than the one and only Naomi Campbell, captivating the audience in a shimmering beaded dress adorned with a heart-shaped breastplate on the bodice and a skirt adorned with cascading loops of fringe.
“This collection is inspired by female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood red rose, and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerfully creative artist who refused to ever compromise her vision. This show is dedicated to the memory Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women, and to the passion, talent, and loyalty of my team.”
-Statement from Sarah Burton
But before we continue, allow me to set the scene...
The show space was adorned with four colossal textile sculptures by Abakanowicz, generously loaned from various museum collections. These sculptures, with their intricate, abstract designs, exuded a captivating aura through their rich interplay of form, color, and texture. As for the clothing on display, it emitted an aura of feminine opulence—imbued with strength, confidence, sensuality, and an undeniable allure, but above all, an exquisite sense of beauty.
The backdrop was enveloped in lifelike bird calls and resonating rumbles, serving as a prelude to a voyage that would transport us to the realm of McQueen.
Sarah selected this theme as a heartfelt tribute to the designer Alexander McQueen, who ardently aimed to empower women, and as a testament to her exceptionally skilled and devoted team. Notably, this show stood out during the week for its inclusive casting, featuring models of diverse sizes, and even expectant mothers, as well as a wide spectrum of ages. The runway showcased models who spanned the spectrum of age, size, shape, and race, embodying looks that conveyed a profound sense of strength and contemporary elegance.
The Collection
The pieces at “Anatomy II" show were nothing short of a visual masterpiece, a stunning fusion of artistry and fashion. Among the remarkable pieces were anatomically embroidered bodysuits, gowns that seemed to burst forth with anatomical petals, and dresses meticulously adorned with anatomical details, reimagined from the original illustrations by Amé Bourdon from the National Library of Medicine. Each piece was a testament to Burton's meticulous attention to detail and her ability to seamlessly blend the worlds of fashion and anatomy.
What stood out even more was the resounding message of desire and dominance that permeated every delicate moment. Sarah Burton's design philosophy celebrated the female form, evident in her impeccably tailored jackets, expertly crafted to reveal sculpted bras or cinched at the waist with exquisite corsetry. These pieces exuded confidence and empowerment, reshaping the notion of fragility into one of strength and self-assuredness.
Lastly, the golden dresses, adorned with intricate threaded decor, made a bold statement on their own, but it was the addition of daring leather corsets that truly transformed these ensembles. These corsets, with their bold manipulation of natural figures, brought a sense of avant-garde elegance to the collection. Cutout suits, adorned with pointed breast covers in glossy leather, further emphasized Burton's innovative approach to fashion, pushing the boundaries of conventional design and showcasing her fearless commitment to pushing the limits of creativity.
My final two words? Sensually magnificent.
Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2024
Now let’s talk about the theatrical production that was Maison Margiela.
John Galliano is undoubtedly a master of his craft, a name synonymous with fashion greatness. His illustrious career saw him at the helm of Givenchy and Dior during the late '90s and early '00s, solidifying his status as one of the industry's true luminaries. Since assuming the role of Creative Director at Maison Margiela, he has continued to push boundaries and challenge conventions, bringing his signature touch to the brand.
In this latest collection, Galliano's genius shines through in every stitch and detail. The foundation of this showcase is built upon intricate tailoring, embracing the prevailing trend of the season with a dramatic and theatrical flair that is quintessentially Margiela. Galliano takes classic silhouettes and infuses them with striking, unmistakably Margiela-esque details, while his models gracefully traverse the runway with an almost slouched, languid elegance.
What Was the Theme?
Maison Margiela embarked on a quest for personal authenticity, a journey illuminated through the generational evolution of an inherited wardrobe. With John Galliano at the helm, this show became an alchemical experiment, a fusion of eras and attitudes, all intertwined within a narrative that effortlessly transported the audience through time.
This narrative unfolded as part of Margiela’s ongoing chronicle, delving into the lives of characters Count and Hen, weaving a tale that transcended time and space, inviting the audience to explore the rich tapestry of individual truths and the intrigue of reinvention.
In this collection, Margiela reveals the origin story of Count and Hen.
But before we continue, allow me to set the scene...
The ambiance was enriched by the harmonious notes of a piano-cello duet, rendering Ludvig van Beethoven's "Sonata Pathétique" in the background. This musical choice subtly hinted at the underlying theme of the presentation: the act of transmission.
Moving upstairs, the show unfolded a narrative portraying the initial encounter between the characters Count and Hen's parents as they embarked on their journey to America. Both characters were attired in the fashion of the early 20th century, setting the stage for a fateful collision of destinies. The subdued color palette conveyed a sense of rationality and purpose rather than romantic entanglements, demonstrating the gravity of their meeting.
As the presentation unfolded, a sense of liberation gradually took hold. Garments had drapes and creases, as if to symbolize that they were stored for an extended period, which gave them distinct character. There were parts of a skirt's hemline held together by tape and segments of bustiers that were either removed or folded down, resembling impromptu customizations suited for an on-the-go lifestyle.
The Collection
One remarkable aspect of this collection was its edgy imagination combined with practical wearability, a balance that many contemporary designers find challenging to achieve.
The show opened with striking black tailored coats and suits, featuring dramatic volumes that models wrapped around themselves. These ensembles were accompanied with deconstructed white collars around the model’s necks.
Galliano skillfully deconstructed and transformed elements of modern high fashion by blending ball gowns, haute couture, hourglass silhouettes, and eccentric 1950s hats.
The collection beautifully explored the art of repurposing vintage garments and creatively reusing bodices, linings, and petticoats with muted splashes of color. It even incorporated unconventional materials like trash bags, plastics, and lampshade hats made from wire.
My final two words? Beautiful chaos.
How would you describe Sarah Burton & John Galliano’s design styles?
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