Cowboy Core: Louis Vuitton & Beyoncé’s Western Renaissance
Louis Vuitton’s Fall-Winter 2024 Menswear Collection by Pharrell Williams & Beyoncé’s Renaissance Act II Pays Homage to a Genealogy of the Black West.
Hello, Fashion Talk readers! Today, I’m thrilled to introduce a debut article authored by one of our talented student writers, Trapetas C. McGill, also known as “Kat,” her artistic persona and muse. ✨
There's a palpable Western Renaissance underway — and we're not the only ones taking notice. Recently, renowned musician and creative director Pharrell Williams unveiled his sophomore collection for Louis Vuitton, evoking the ambiance of a lively rodeo.
Then shortly after, Beyoncé announced the release date for her highly anticipated album, which fans speculate will embrace the country genre.
That’s right — Pharrell and Beyoncé are reclaiming the genre. Is it mere coincidence that this phenomenon is occurring simultaneously? Hmmm…
Join us as we delve into this imminent Western Renaissance. 🤠
Editor’s Note: Trapetas is a participant in Fashion Talk's student writing program. Aligned with our mission to uplift young voices in the fashion industry, I had the pleasure of working closely with Trapetas to craft this article. I’m excited to share her fresh and insightful perspective with our community.
Happy reading,
Amarissa
Editor-in-Chief, Fashion Talk
Louis Vuitton’s Men’s creative director, Pharrell Williams, premiered his Fall-Winter 24 collection in Paris, presenting a sophomore line infused with Western influences. The show beautifully embodied an array of iconographic symbols and traced the lineage of American Western dress and workwear through dynamic motion.
A Louis Vuitton spokesperson revealed in a press release that the show’s vision encompassed collaborations with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations, influencing elements such as sound, staging, and design. Guests sat in amazement as models navigated a deliberate depiction of the Midwest’s geographical landscape, accompanied by immersive audio featuring bird calls and Native-American chants.
Embodying the brand ethos of travel, the Jardin d'Acclimatation underwent a seamless transformation adorned with 3-D prints of the Midwest frontier. The collection not only honors humanity and landscape but also reverently acknowledges the anthropological significance of a culture that has captivated not just Americans but the world.
Beyoncé Takes Fans to a Rodeo
Pharrell is not alone in his admiration for Southern and Midwestern culture. Shortly after the launch of his collection, Beyoncé revealed the release date of her highly anticipated Renaissance Act ll album during Super Bowl night. Before this, the most decorated artist in Grammy history showcased a rodeo-inspired ensemble by Louis Vuitton at music’s biggest night, the 66th Annual Grammy Awards.
Beyoncé wore a Louis Vuitton jacket ornamented with Louis Vuitton’s iconic Damier check crafted in crystal, paired with a matching skirt, and topped off with a striking cowboy hat, fully embracing what the culture has deemed ‘cowboy core’.
While Beyoncé has previously collaborated with music legend Pharrell Williams, notably enlisting him as one of the designers for her Act l Renaissance World Tour stage costumes, some onlookers are questioning the timing of Pharrell’s nod to the Wild West in conjunction with Beyoncé’s venture into Midwestern-inspired folk and country music.
Beyoncé recently released two country ballads, ‘TEXAS HOLD' ‘EM’ and ‘16 CARRIAGES’ both met with critical acclaim. Embracing the rodeo spirit, she gears up for the release of Renaissance Act ll, scheduled to release March 29th. The cover art of her second single features Beyoncé sporting a button-up shirt fastened to the collar, reminiscent of traditional Midwest middle-American workwear, complete with a cowboy hat of course.
‘Texas Hold Em’ awarded Beyoncé as the first black woman in history to debut as number one on Billboard’s Hot Country Songs charts. The cover art of Texas Hold ‘Em showcases Beyoncé wearing a tuxedo jacket and a Stetson cowboy hat.
While there hasn’t been an official announcement of a collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Beyoncé, the undeniable parallels of influence suggest a symbolic exploration of two artistic powerhouses, both of African American descent, reclaiming the frontier.
The Wild West As a Historical Muse
Firstly, what defines the American frontier and how has its influence permeated various aspects of culture, including fashion, music, and cinema?
What distinctive aesthetic characterizes the attire of these southern cowboys?
Frontierism, rooted in historian Frederick Jackson Turner’s frontier thesis, examines the colonization of the “rugged American frontier” spanning the Southern and the Midwest regions of the United States. Turner’s thesis advocates for westward expansion, birthing the archetype of the “rugged American Cowboy” and shaping the international aesthetic of the Western frontier.
According to cinema experts, the Western genre, although originating in America, has been embraced globally. Renowned American director Clint Eastwood's movie Unforgiven, winning Best Picture in 1992, authentically portrays true cowboy attire: button-down collared shirts, cowboy boots, and robust buckled belts. Moreover, country music has deep roots in America’s colonial culture, introduced by West African slaves.
Music originating from the Western frontier, popularized in the 20th century, serves as an auditory encyclopedia of the Western landscape. The contemporary ‘cowboy core’ aesthetic derives from a lineage of frontier cowboy styles admired both by Pharrell Williams of Louis Vuitton and Beyoncé for Act ll.
Louis Vuitton's craftsmanship presents audiences with an embellished ‘cowboy core’ aesthetic, juxtaposing it with the mundane workwear often worn by farmers and miners in the Western landscape. Despite this contrast, the collection seamlessly collaborates with Timberland's renowned work boot, as well as pop culture legends.
Featuring an array of elements including cowboy hats, cowboy boots, blue denim, oversized belt buckles, blue-colored shirts, Western-style neckties, handkerchiefs, leather jackets, denim jackets, and fringe outerwear, the collection captures the essence of Western heritage with a touch of luxury and contemporary flair.
Notably, the collection exhibited suits painted with cactus motifs, Louis Vuitton’s celebrity Speedy Bag featuring cow-skin imprints and midwestern indigenous monograms, and a full-out head-to-toe ‘cowboy core’ ensemble in brilliant red. These designs are meticulously fashioned with iconography reminiscent of the Midwestern frontier. Pharrell Williams appears to imbue these pieces with an essence of the Wild West that transcends the pathos of clothing.
Pharrell states “When [an audience] sees cowboys portrayed [its] …only a few versions. [They] never really get to see what some of the original cowboys looked like…. [Williams counties] They look like me. They look Black. They look Native American.”
In making this statement, he sheds light on the historical erasure of diverse perspectives and cultures in the portrayal of the West. He addresses the impact of Western colonization on the Midwest, highlighting the importance of acknowledging and reclaiming the cultural heritage of Black and Native American communities.
Through fashion, Pharrell addresses those who have shaped audience perceptions of the Midwest, while also re-centering culture and humanity that have been marginalized and erased.
Louis Vuitton celebrates the Midwest but not its colonial past, as the artistry centers on Black and Native models, as well as collaboration with indigenous tribes.
At the show, Pharrell’s long-standing musical career is evident, with collaborations such as Good People with the British folk band Mumford & Sons. His runway featured diverse and gender-inclusive models, accompanied by the empowering anthem “Welcome to the Revolution.”
Case in point, Pharrell’s portrayal of the Western aesthetic is refreshingly non-white.
Beyoncé in Western Wardrobe
While Beyoncé was absent from Pharrell’s star-studded showcase, she appears to have drawn inspiration from a similar playbook. Fans anticipate Act ll to be a reclaiming of the country genre.
Indeed, Pharrell is not alone in reclaiming the frontier.
During this past New York Fashion Week, Beyoncé made a memorable appearance at Luar’s Fall Winter 24 show, dripping in a head-to-toe silver ensemble complemented by a Luar bag. This choice of attire reflects Beyoncé’s homage to her Texas roots, embracing the essence of Midwestern style.
She is famously known as a woman of few words, often opting for silent launches that inevitably send the media into a frenzy. Despite the absence of confirmation regarding a country album or collaboration with Louis Vuitton, she is no stranger to dropping hints like these.
Fun fact: In lieu of Beyoncé's new aesthetic, searches for cowboy boots surged by 163 percent, while bolo ties saw a staggering increase of 566 percent.
Renaissance Act l sparked a similar fashion revolution with Beyoncé collaborating with numerous iconic fashion houses during her tour.
During the Act I tour, Beyoncé wore Pharrell William’s first-ever custom Louis Vuitton ensemble—a dazzling glittery catsuit—for her sold-out performance.
In time for Pharrell's sophomore collection, both creators simultaneously show the world what the Wild West is all about. Perhaps the public should look out for an official Midwest hoedown on the horizon.
Could Louis Vuitton’s Fall Winter 24 collection become the official ready-to-wear attire during Beyoncé’s Renaissance Act II era?
Nevertheless, fans can eagerly anticipate both artists canvassing native and indigenous Western culture, offering a spectacle for the world to witness and enjoy.
Final oversight & edits by Amarissa Imoukhuede, Founder & Editor in Chief of Fashion Talk.
Get to know Trapetas “Kat” McGill here.
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Very talented writer!