Couture Whispers: Maison Margiela's Parisian Tale
Reflecting on the haunting beauty of John Galliano's Artisanal 2024 show.
Apologies for the wait, but some experiences require time to sink in before they can be properly articulated…
As I settle in to pen my thoughts on Maison Margiela’s recent couture show, I'm eager to unravel its mesmerizing allure, its haunting beauty, and its enduring impact on the fashion industry. If you haven't already experienced this show and claim to be a fashion enthusiast, you're undeniably missing out.
As deeply poetic as the show was, I'd like to infuse a bit of that essence into today’s article. Bear with me as I explore this new style of writing.
In my sanctuary of introspection, I've wandered through the corridors of memory, tracing the delicate work of John Galliano’s Artisanal Collection 2024 presentation. Like whispers carried by the wind, the essence of Parisian reveries finds refuge in the sanctuary of my pen, etching poetry upon the canvas of fleeting time.
This show stirred within me a sense of inspiration, renewal, and raw emotion. It was akin to witnessing the fashion world emerge from a prolonged hibernation. But before delving into the nuances of the show, I want to underscore the profound significance of criticism—constructive criticism, that is. In today's climate, it appears that many writers shy away from honest critique, fearing backlash, cancellation, or accusations of being overly severe. This could explain why we've been seeing many lukewarm collections and witnessing shows lacking in passion.
Yet, what purpose does writing serve if one cannot freely express genuine thoughts or opinions?
What was the theme?
“The ritual of dressing is a composition of the self. With the body as our canvas, we build an exterior expressive of the interior: a form of emotion. The Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection paints a picture of the practices and occurrences that shape the character reflected within our dress. Under Pont Alexandre III, bathed in the light of the first full moon of the year, Creative Director John Galliano captures a moment in time: a walk through the underbelly of Paris, offline.”
-From the House
From its intriguing location beneath the Pont Alexandre III deck arch bridge in Paris to the overarching eerie ambiance crafted to evoke the "underbelly of Paris" and its nocturnal denizens (as per press notes), this transcended mere fashion spectacle, resembling more a cinematic experience than a traditional runway show.
Throughout the show, we witness women sauntering leisurely through a scene reminiscent of a 1920s Parisian bar, complete with weathered floorboards and haphazardly arranged chairs. Meanwhile, men traverse the space, clutching their coats tightly, their demeanor akin to lost souls or fugitives on the run.
Additionally, a solitary figure stands drenched under an umbrella, shivering from the cold, while another appears doubled over in hunger. Amidst this tableau, women move solemnly, some boldly displaying their unshaven lady parts, adding a raw and provocative element to the narrative.
It resembled a living painting. John Galliano masterfully wove his narrative through every conceivable medium.
This show encapsulated a celebration of individuality, delving into the intricate tapestry of humanity's multifaceted nature, unafraid to illuminate our darker inclinations and the profound influence of our life experiences on our identities and sartorial choices. It exalted fashion as a pure form of creative expression, underscored by the pinnacle of craftsmanship.
Before we continue, allow me to set the scene...
The ambiance hung heavy with shadows, casting an ethereal veil of darkness that seemed to swallow the surroundings whole. Half of the audience perched beneath the bridge, ensconced in the intimacy of outdoor café tables, while the other half nestled inside the dimly illuminated bar, occupying tables or chairs scattered throughout.
Amidst the mysterious backdrop, a pool table stood as a silent sentinel, adorned with a mosaic of seemingly discarded items and shattered fragments, lending an air of haunting beauty to the scene.
The show commenced with a haunting yet strangely whimsical melody, resonating from a choir cloaked entirely in somber black attire. Suddenly, as if on cue, the lights dimmed, and antique mirrors burst into life, their reflections dancing across the room as video monitors flickered to reveal a mesmerizing black-and-white film.
Within its fleeting frames, the audience was transported into a world where the tightening of a corset assumed an aggressively lustful allure, woven seamlessly with scenes of illicit desire and audacious jewel thievery.
As the film unfolded, the tension mounted, culminating in a climactic moment where one of the corseted figures, now clad in a trench coat, dashed frantically into the dark, rain-soaked streets of Paris. With a swift gesture, he cast aside his cloak, baring himself to the audience beneath the subdued glow of the bridge's dim lights—an embodiment of untamed defiance and unshackled liberation.
The Collection
Setting aside the theatrics, atmosphere, and music, let's focus on the essence of the collection itself—a true masterpiece. While these may not be garments I would personally don, there's an undeniable reverence for the craftsmanship evident in each piece.
The meticulous attention to detail is striking, especially in how the outfits seamlessly align with the storyline. Take, for instance, the distressed tights paired with women’s suits and dresses, perfectly capturing the essence of the narrative.
It was said that during the year John Galliano dedicated to crafting this collection, he introduced several innovative couture dressmaking techniques. Among these, "retrograding" caught attention—an intricate method utilizing variations of thread-work, appliqué, or encrustation to artfully mimic the nuanced degeneration of detail, akin to what occurs when an image is repeatedly re-created.
Another notable technique is "emotional cutting," a literal interpretation where the fabric is sliced through. Galliano elucidates that this process imbues the garment with the unconscious gestures that influence our expressions, adding a profound layer to the artistry of each piece.
Even the models' hair and makeup, orchestrated by the renowned Pat McGrath, are worthy of acclaim. They transcend mere beauty, resembling exquisite works of art, transforming the models into living porcelain dolls. Such is their influence that even Bratz, the iconic dolls themselves, have emulated these striking looks.
Moreover, a notable trend has emerged with makeup artists worldwide recreating these iconic looks, underscoring the show's profound impact not only on fashion history but also on pop culture at large.
In essence, the entire show serves as a powerful testament to the transformative impact of wholeheartedly investing all facets of oneself and talents into one's craft. John Galliano's visionary approach has breathed new life into the fashion landscape, rekindling a sense of bold creativity that had long felt absent.
My final two words? Emotionally evocative.
What Paris Haute Couture shows have captivated you this year?
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