AREA Fall Winter 2024: The Art of Repetition
The start to Area’s 10th anniversary Fall Winter ‘24 NYFW show was a disorienting haze. The dissonant monotone ring of an electric horn signaled the first model to stomp down the dimly lit A-Frame stage. Guests were positioned on either side of this voyeuristic and provocative showcase.
Reminiscent of the winding corridors of New York nightclubs like “Basement,” the setup was akin to the hidden nooks and crannies in the back of these clubs, where inhibitions are thrown to the wind and hookups run wild. Sensual, technical, and derivative only of the building blocks of its own making, Piotrek Panszczyk presents a masterclass in self-reflection. A homage to the brand’s past collections, the theme was self-identity and self-expression. Baked into these looks is a bold statement about self-autonomy and a virtuosic performance about the art of extension in fashion design.
The collection opened with bold reinterpretations of the octagonal nameplate chain. Similar details are present throughout this series of powerful dominatrixes, whether draped over an oversized blazer as a pocket chain, embossed into a “Leather Daddy” police cap, or layered in a bodysuit made entirely of gold plating. This single motif goes a long way, acting both as an accessory and a material to fabricate.
The next set of looks explores hands—hands, hands, hands—whether screen-printed in ghostly hues or as bold vinyl graphics placed over the chest. Nearly 25% of the collection incorporates this striking motif in various ways.
These looks tie directly to Area’s collaboration with Tinder and Planned Parenthood. As part of an initiative to support bodily autonomy, Area designed a “Bans off our bodies” T-shirt, which was featured in the collection. Financially facilitated by Tinder, all proceeds up to $25,000 (regardless of the shirt that generates profit) will be donated to Planned Parenthood. In a press interview with Tinder CMO Melissa Hobley, it was revealed that “individuals personally impacted by abortion bans [have been invited] to sit front row at the show, including Nancy Davis, a mother of three who survived Louisiana’s abortion ban traveling over 1,000 miles to NYC to receive a safe abortion.”
Area is known for its graphic embellishments, like its nameplates and pearl studded bodice t-shirts. So while these looks are the least conceptual of the bunch, they are a wonderful addition to the necessary and more pedestrian sensibilities of this RTW collection. Panszczyk’s homage to bodily autonomy is both a solid exploration of pattern while delivering a haunting, yet tactful message. Despite its effective simplicity, these looks foreshadow even further exploration of the motif later on…
Panszczyk continues to use multiple ensembles to investigate his core concepts. The exposed breasts, oversized studded moto jackets, tan knits, topographical prints, and sartorial gowns have room to breathe. Every look is connected, fleshed out, and tweaked to perfection. Not to mention the menagerie of Officer’s caps. With brims so long that they obstruct the model’s view, they evoke the image of a militia. Powerful, foreboding, and dominant, the caps are symbols of authority and look incredible paired with looks of all constructions.
The design ideology reminds me of Valentino. Famously, he believed in consistency over reinventing the wheel. “When I first started out, I created collections with 200,000 ideas. 30 would’ve been enough.” (Valentino, 1991, New York Magazine). Each Area collection is diametrically unique from the last, and yet they are also staunchly on topic. SS23 was inspired by watching fruit slowly decay, SS24 was the “Googley Eyes” show, and Pre-fall 2024 was all about deconstructing a butterfly/flower shape. These are ideas that stick. Generating a direction that the brand can commit to, even if only for one season.
A highlight of this collection is the re-interpretations of texture within the punk aesthetic. The studs and spikes are so excessive and intricately placed, that they invoke a crystallized metal look. As if geodes formed in iron, these spectacular embellishments are striking enough to not warrant pants (consistent with the recent “no pants trend”) and are edgy enough to emanate a sense of radioactive danger. To be frank, I’m tired of Punk being explored solely through tartan and hardware. It’s exciting to see material exploration that’s literally edgy enough to strike fear into onlookers.
The second-to-last set of looks features reimagined fringe, with long, cylindrical cords wrapping effortlessly around the models. These designs trace the body's natural lines in an exceptionally flattering way.
Something about this fabrication reminds me of the #divinemachinery and #machinesasangles trend: intricate yet simple, entangled yet organized, overwhelming yet digestible beauty.
The final show-stopping looks are the pinnacle of the collection’s thesis. The repetition comes full circle when Look 34 struts around the corner. Posted on Piotrek’s instagram, the volume of the highlighter yellow garment is achieved with thousands of hands stacked on top of each other. Not only is the construction quite novel and creative, but it ties back to the pre-established hand motif beautifully.
This is repetition in its purest form—transforming thousands of repeated shapes into a stunning design requires true talent. Judging by the audience's awestruck reactions and the sea of phone screens lighting up as the look hit the runway, it’s clear the bold vision paid off.
The show concluded with a series of striking black looks. Tassels made one final appearance, this time diffused between solid fabrics and shredded at the ends. An 'oil slick' hand motif enveloped the model in textured black appendages. Finally, the collection returned to the stacked, repeating hands motif, clustered at the top and bottom to create a prickly, trumpet-shaped gown.
Overall, this collection is consistent with its themes and committed to its construction. These pieces exude sex appeal sensibly and tastefully. No matter how much or how little skin is showing, or how much dominatrix subtext is present, every look is powerful, commanding, and intellectual.
The up-and-coming South African Amapiano sensation Tyla made her VMAs debut in Look 33. Hot off the runway, Tyla stunned in this fringe dress. Most likely a reference to the outfit that kicked off her viral “Water” dance just months prior. The look compliments her body and complexion extremely well.
Other styling opportunities for this collection could include Slayyyter, an Indie Sleaze 2.0 icon, wearing some of the more tailored, FemDom-inspired looks.
I could also see Mylie Cyrus in some of the more sculptural armor-like pieces that play off of the nameplate motif.
Finally, I’d love to see Nyphia Wind, the reigning Drag Race champion, stun in Look 34. Her impeccable taste and flair for banana-inspired couture would make this sensational look a perfect fit.
Piotrek Panszczyk and his team at Area are following in the footsteps of visionary designers who prioritize concept, allowing creativity to shine through precise execution. This 10th anniversary collection solidifies Area as a brand committed to exploring absurdity with intellect. We can only hope the next decade continues to be shaped by Panszczyk’s wild yet refined creativity.
Edited by Amarissa, Founder & Editor in Chief of Fashion Talk.
FASHION WEEK
 | A guest post by
|