Andreas Kronthaler's Fall '23 Tribute to Punk Fashion's Matriarch
Exploring the roots of the Vivienne Westwood brand and the continued legacy carried by Andreas Kronthaler.
Student guest writer Simone returns with an unforgettable journey through the essence of Vivienne Westwood. She not only unveils the elegant Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 23 collection, showcased at Paris Fashion Week, but also takes us on a captivating exploration of the brand's roots, delving into Vivienne Westwood's history, her iconic fashion evolution, and how Kronthaler seamlessly carries forward this legendary legacy with his distinctive flair.
Editor’s Note: Simone is a participant in Fashion Talk's student writing program. Aligned with our mission to uplift young voices in the fashion industry, I had the pleasure of working closely with Simone to craft this article. I’m excited to share her fresh and insightful perspective with our community.
Happy reading,
Amarissa
Editor-in-Chief, Fashion Talk
Does the rebellious punk spirit of Vivienne Westwood live on after her passing? In the aftermath of her passing on December 29th, 2022, Andreas Kronthaler, her partner, unveiled a commemorative collection under the Vivienne Westwood brand. To understand his Fall 2023 collection, we must first delve into the legacy of his iconic wife, the matriarch of punk fashion.
Vivienne Westwood was born on April 8th, 1941 in Derbyshire, England to Gordon Swire and Dora Swire. In 1962, she adopted the surname ‘Westwood’ from her first husband, Derek Westwood, with whom she had a son named Benjamin. However, their union ended when Vivienne crossed paths with Malcolm McLaren. Together, they relocated and welcomed their son Joseph Corré into the world, continuing both their romantic and professional collaboration in design. Operating punk boutiques featuring provocative clothing, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's partnership endured beyond their marriage, concluding in 1981. Their professional partnership also came to an end five years later.
As a professor at the Vienna Academy of Applied Arts, Vivienne Westwood encountered her third and final husband, Andreas Kronthaler (Britannica). In the twilight years of Westwood's iconic life, Kronthaler collaborated with her under the Vivienne Westwood brand. Recognized globally for challenging boundaries and crafting bold garments, Vivienne Westwood passed away on December 29th, 2022, in London. Andreas Kronthaler, armed with three decades of shared experiences, aims to perpetuate the legacy of her brand.
The Beginning
Before the Vivienne Westwood brand evolved into the iconic punk brand it is today, Vivienne Westwood started as a small designer in 1970s London, drawing inspiration from the rebellion of 1950s clothing. Teaming up with Malcolm McLaren at the boutique ‘Sex,’ Westwood took an interest in "biker clothing, zips, and leather" (viviennewestwood.com). Their collaborative designs, marked by provocative elements and nods to sexual fetishism and bondage, were categorized as 'Punk Rock,' a style that gained popularity against Westwood's initial intentions.
In 1981, Vivienne Westwood debuted the ‘Orb’ logo and the ‘Pirate’ collection in collaboration with Malcolm McLaren in their first catwalk show. This collection was the beginning of the influence of historical dress on the brand and introduced romantic pieces with orange, yellow, and gold to London (viviennewestwood.com). Despite popular trends, Vivienne Westwood knew the look she wanted to create.
Staple Silhouettes
From 1988 to 1992, Vivienne Westwood ranked among the top six designers globally, leveraging this success to secure the Professorship of Fashion at the Vienna Academy of Applied Arts. Following her departure from the Vienna Academy in 1991, Westwood received the prestigious O.B.E (Order of the British Empire) from the late Queen Elizabeth II in 1992 (viviennewestwood.com). Concurrently, she delved into designing wedding dress collections, inspired by a young girl adorned in luxurious attire. The culmination of this creative journey resulted in her globally acclaimed Autumn-Winter 1987 'Harris Tweed' collection.
Venturing into textile creation, she created her tartan for the subsequent Autumn-Winter 1993/94 collection called ‘Anglomania’ (viviennewestwood.com). In later collections, Westwood continued to incorporate tartan or patterned cloth, which became a distinctive staple. The designs within ‘Anglomania’ were found to reference previous lines such as ‘Pirate’ or ‘Sex,’ evident in their silhouettes, tailoring, and styles. Westwood's affinity for tailoring, rooted in English traditions, paid homage to French proportions, as this fusion was showcased in her Red Label launch in 1999.
Dame of Punk Fashion
At the turn of the century, Vivienne Westwood's profound impact on fashion garnered recognition, marked by an exhibition hosted by the Victoria and Albert Museum. A mere year later, she received the esteemed title of Dame from Prince Charles, the Prince of Wales.
Championing climate philanthropy and activism, Westwood collaborated with the United Nations to initiate The Made in Kenya collaboration. This venture supported the Ethical Fashion Initiative and Artisan Fashion, reflecting her commitment to ethical and sustainable practices in the industry.
Persisting in her environmental advocacy, Westwood collaborated with Burberry to support Cool Earth, a non-profit dedicated to fundraising for the protection of endangered rainforests, combating global warming, preserving ecosystems, and providing employment (viviennewestwood.com). Amidst the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic and environmental concerns, the Vivienne Westwood show transitioned to a digital format. However, before this shift, the brand hosted its final physical runway during London Fashion Week in 2019.
Preceding this show, Westwood’s husband had been releasing collections under the title of “Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood”. This opened a new chapter for Vivienne Westwood since the brand continued to produce collections twice a year, separately from Kronthaler’s lines. Following Vivienne Westwood's passing, Kronthaler opted to persist in designing for her legacy, with his first release being the Fall 2023 collection. The duo had worked on the line together briefly, and one of Westwood's wishes had been for him to showcase this collection after her passing.
The Collection
The Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2023 collection was showcased at Hotel de la Marine in Paris during Paris Fashion Week. A large crowd gathered outside of the hotel, completely unaware of the incredibly emotional show they were about to witness. Andreas Kronthaler was deeply inspired by Vivienne Westwood's favorite silhouettes and her iconic styles from petticoats to tartan, and anything reminiscent of a Buffalo Girl – an inspiration she had told her husband about when they first met.
The collection's theme found its roots in Westwood's 1982 'Buffalo Girls (Nostalgia in Mud)' collection and vintage fabric scraps collected by the couple over the years. Kronthaler's strategic reuse of these vintage materials pays homage to Vivienne Westwood's history of environmental activism. Armed with the secrets of the Vivienne Westwood brand and the necessary tools, Andreas Kronthaler set out to create a stunning collection in honor of her enduring legacy. To explore how Kronthaler pays tribute, let's delve into the opening look.
Nothing embodies the spirit of punk more than the visage and initials of the mother of punk fashion adorning a blouse. The show's opening look featured a literal representation of Vivienne Westwood, accompanied by a tan and mustard yellow wool skirt paired with patterned tights underneath. The pattern itself was a deliberate nod to historic paintings, aligning seamlessly with the vintage theme permeating the entire collection. I’d love to have these tights in my closet and style them!
Beneath the portrait blouse, look one revealed a symphony of layered jewel tones in a shirt with wire boning gracing the long sleeves. A harmonious convergence of multiple layers and mixed patterns paid homage to the brand's distinctive identity. The black platform combat boots are reminiscent of the footwear seen in the 1993/94 ‘Anglomania’ collection.
Channeling the late designer's fervor for English tailoring, Kronthaler created this blazer with precision and passion. A pair of fitted dark brown slacks, this blazer, and a collared shirt fastened with a deep blue tie would be perfect for a day in the office, or sitting front row at a Vivienne Westwood fashion show. The tartan wool jacket, paired with a draped plaid skirt and knee-high boots, constructs a distinctive silhouette. The use of tartan wool refers back to Vivienne Westwood's introduction of the fabric in the 1981 'Pirate' Collection. Renowned for unconventional styles inspired by French proportions, Westwood's signature touch resonates in every stitch. The ensemble, with its intricate pale blue detailing, subtly competes for attention with the platform boots, creating a harmonious balance. Kronthaler elevates the ensemble by intertwining cool jewel-tone blues with a fiery red choker.
This look practically screams Vivienne Westwood. Your eye is immediately drawn to the layered and pleated petticoat with its vibrant red and white tartan fabric, adorned with subtle muted patterns. This petticoat alone is enough to make this look a contender for my favorite in the collection. Similar to the red used in the choker of the previous look, the petticoat is elegantly fastened with a crimson bow—a direct homage to the skirts in Vivienne Westwood's 1982 'Buffalo Girls (Nostalgia in Mud)' collection.
This ensemble is a tapestry of diverse materials and textures, especially the purple and black feathered blouse and the lustrous maroon jacket. The tailored overcoat juxtaposes the dynamic movement of the petticoat and blouse. Beneath the petticoat, the historical art print tights make a return, paired whimsically with colorful lace-up loafers. This outfit is fun and unconventional and captures the essence of the Vivienne Westwood brand with precision.
The introduction of romantic gold to the Vivienne Westwood brand dates back to the iconic 1981 'Pirate' collection. This particular look amplifies the allure of metallic gold across its multiple statement pieces. The thigh-high gold platform boots stand as a formidable armor, embodying the model as a warrior. Draped around the neck is a chunky gold chain adorned with large charms, featuring leaves, squares, and animal heads.
At first glance, I only noticed the gold of the charms, but upon further inspection, detailed shapes formed. The jewel-tone fuchsia purse, with its metallic chain detailing on the strap, complements the boots and jewelry effortlessly. Amidst the gold highlights, the ensemble includes bloomer shorts in tartan fabric and a floor-length long-sleeve cardigan. Realistically, I don’t know if I would be able to style and wear bloomers, but if I owned these, I’d be up for the challenge. The darker muted tones of the bloomers and cardigan serve as a canvas, allowing the metallic accents to pop.
Drawing inspiration from the 'Pirate' Collection once again, this exquisite jewel-toned dress immerses itself in a vibrant color palette. The pattern features repeating teal floral shapes with pops of white and black, creating a print reminiscent of cellular structures. Paired with the gown is a matching three-quarter length sleeved jacket, boasting a white, black, and gray printed lining.
The dress is cinched at the waist with a statement silver belt, adorned with a large buckle embellished with rhinestones. Accentuating the ensemble further is a large silver necklace and matching statement earrings. As an avid silver jewelry wearer, I appreciate the vibrant pops of silver that elegantly complement the stunning jewel tones. Bringing the floral theme full circle, platform boots with a black base and jewel-tone flower print finalize the look. The look is completed with headwear, in a tall black asymmetrical shape.
In a homage to Vivienne Westwood's 'Portrait Corset' from her 1987/88 'Harris Tweed' collection, Andreas Kronthaler meticulously recreates the essence of this masterpiece in this ensemble. The focal point of this look is the lace-front yellow floral and black bodice, capturing attention with its intricate detailing. The corset and petticoat, though appearing connected, form a distinctive two-piece set, separated by the skirt's red corded belt. . Just when I thought the tartan Look 47/69 had taken the spotlight as my favorite, my jaw dropped in awe, discovering the numerous intricate details of this masterpiece.
The petticoat is a blend of warm-toned pleated fabrics, featuring the yellow floral textile from the corset among its layers. Over the corset, a cropped gray knit cardigan with puffy shoulders takes center stage, adorned with an embroidery of the initials 'VW' in a heart near the left shoulder. The inclusion of Vivienne Westwood's initials on the jacket establishes a connection to the opening look in the collection, where the portrait and initials of the late designer adorned a blouse. Complementing the red tones in the petticoat, the model showcases gold and crimson statement earrings. The jewel tones are seamlessly woven into this ensemble through the knee-high green patterned sneakers and the violet and black floral long-sleeve, creating a harmonious balance of colors and textures.
The grand finale of the show featured Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood's granddaughter, Cora Corré, walking hand-in-hand down the runway. Drawing inspiration from Westwood's renowned bridal collections, Kronthaler crafted a bodysuit for Cora. The white fabric, lace, and corset boning created a flattering and elegant silhouette. The structured off-the-shoulder neckline, combined with wire-boning long sleeves, exuded a regal and formal aura. Completing the look, the beige and pale blue platform boots from Look 30/69 make a return, providing the perfect balance for the shortness of the bodysuit. Cora Corré held a bouquet of white daffodils, known to symbolize rebirth, new beginnings, and a desire for transformation. This bridal closing was a perfectly fitting homage to Vivienne Westwood's wedding gown designs and collections.
Merging the Old with the New
Having delved into the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2023 Collection, it's nearly impossible to envision a more exquisite tribute to the mother of punk fashion. Andreas Kronthaler masterfully preserved the classic punk vibe synonymous with Vivienne Westwood, seamlessly weaving in references to iconic archive collections, while adding his unique touch.
Deviating from the typical straightforward or aggressively rebellious pieces, the new looks in the collection embody a romantic edge to punk rock introduced by Kronthaler. His designs convey a unique feeling, seamlessly blending elements from different eras. Building on the 'Pirate' inspirations, Kronthaler incorporates the aesthetics of pirate accessories and harlequin-style dresses. This showcases his significant potential to broaden the Vivienne Westwood brand, incorporating iconic punk origins and well-known Westwood silhouettes with Kronthaler's elegant touch.
A consistent theme emerges in both Andreas Kronthaler's Fall 2023 Vivienne Westwood collection and his latest Ready-To-Wear Spring 2024 show. His recent work revolves around reimagining iconic designs co-created with Vivienne Westwood. Despite the brand's renewal, almost every look draws inspiration from Kronthaler's archive of Westwood's wardrobe. The designer's romantic and elegant touch breathes new life into vintage designs, offering a fresh perspective. With Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, the fashion world can anticipate a revival of archive garments, providing loyal followers the opportunity to own pieces previously seen only on the late designer.
Vivienne Westwood saw the potential in her husband and stated, “Over the years Andreas has taken on ever more responsibility and I wish this fact to be reflected in public perception.” The Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2023 Collection stands as a testament to his dedication to Westwood and his capacity to propel the brand into the future.
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