An Industry Made by Women, Run by Men
An in-depth exploration of the gender gap within an industry that appears to be predominantly female.
Fashion is predominantly run by women, right? I mean, think about it— female models are featured in top brand campaigns, they're the face of major fashion houses, and let's not even start on the sheer number of womenswear brands compared to menswear. It's our world, isn't it?
Well, the truth might be a bit more complex. Sure, women are the glamorous face of the industry, but here's the twist: the real power players are the men orchestrating the show behind the scenes. Ever notice that the creative minds behind major fashion brands, the ones setting the trends and dictating style? More often than not, they're men.
Joy Zorina Weinsoff digs deep into this issue, revealing the dynamics behind the scenes of the fashion industry. Here’s a fresh perspective that might just challenge what you thought you knew about who's really calling the shots.
Happy reading,
Amarissa
In recent years, we’ve witnessed a significant increase in publicity and widespread debates concerning the gender gap in professional settings, particularly within corporate America.
 While there has been substantial progress in narrowing the gender gap across American businesses, it’s imperative to redirect attention toward the underrepresentation of women in top-tier management roles within the fashion industry. A 2018 survey by McKinsey & Company revealed that only 14% of major brands are run by female executives, and less than half of popular womenswear brands are designed or produced by women. With the recent attention generated by the widely discussed Barbie movie and its impactful message, now is the perfect time to shed light on an industry where awareness gaps have translated into a lack of meaningful action.
The Benefits of the Female Face
Of the approximately 60 million individuals comprising the global garment industry, a staggering 80% are women. This apparent majority can be misleading — how are women underrepresented if they make up the backbone of the industry? Well, this is not by chance, however, but is the result of several discriminatory practices.
Unfortunately, the garment business is notorious for its less-than-satisfactory working conditions, limited benefits, and low wages. Brands often select countries with lenient labor laws as sourcing destinations, where female workers are so deeply engrossed in their daily duties, making it challenging for them to unite and advocate for their rights. Exploiting this vulnerability, employers exploit cultural stereotypes, compelling women to conform. Additionally, these female workers frequently encounter instances of sexual assault and abuse, living in constant fear for their safety when walking home at night.
Moving up the fashion management chain, we don’t see much female representation. Insights from interviews with HR managers shown by McKinsey’s study reveal a bias towards male interviewers, affirming them greater consideration than their female counterparts. Furthermore, unmarried and older women tend to be favored over married women of childbearing age, even with comparable qualifications.
The Illusion of Female Dominance in Fashion
When you think of fashion, what immediately comes to mind? Women take the lead in trendsetting, purchasing, promoting, and influencing. Consider all the quintessential activities associated with fashion— from scouting the latest designer bag, killing your ankles because of a pair of trendy heels, to losing your sanity trying to match your earrings with your belt. Take a stroll through a mall or retail outlet, and you’ll predominantly encounter female shoppers.Â
If casual observations don’t suffice, consider the statistics. Women constitute the majority of apparel sales, exceeding $159 billion in 2017 alone, as shown by a study conducted by The NPD Group. Despite this apparent dominance in the consumer base and target audience, a misleading perception prevails. If so much of fashion is tailored to women, wouldn’t it make sense that women should be the ones steering the ship? This question brings attention to the often overlooked issue.
Fashion uses women as a mask, but the patriarchy is more than flourishing behind the scenes.
How Do We Move Forward?
As a society, where do we go from here? According to research conducted by Fair Trade Certified, approximately 85% of students majoring in fashion at top schools are women, equipped with ambitions that should take them to top executive positions. However, with patriarchy taking the front seat, the aspirations of these freshly graduated women diminish, while men receiving promotions, accolades, and guidance continue to be fueled as they rise to the top.
How can we redirect hope towards the young women investing hours of work and boundless effort to leave their mark in an industry that has shaped their lives?
We must first recognize this uncomfortable reality so that we may take the first step to overcome it. In a McKinsey study, 100% of women surveyed acknowledged gender inequality as a workplace issue, while less than 50% of men shared this perception. Female employees used terms like ‘bias,’ ‘unfair,’ and ‘sexist’ to characterize their places of employment, while men described the same companies as ‘fair’ and ‘diverse’. Raising awareness of this disparity is a promising approach to combating this narrative. However, all levels of the management chain must stop viewing gender inequality solely as a women’s problem and, instead, tackle the issue comprehensively from every angle.
The advantages of a gender-diverse company are loud and clear. McKinsey’s study outlines that brands with a higher proportion of women in top positions are 22% more likely to outperform their competitors. When women have the opportunity to shine beyond traditional outlets such as runway shows and magazine covers, both society and a company’s bottom line reap substantial benefits.
As consumers, it is imperative that we consistently celebrate the success and achievements of women until it becomes second nature. Let us direct our investments toward supporting independent female designers and entrepreneurs with the same reverence that we give to major fashion houses. May this era be defined by championing the women working behind the scenes and dismantling the façade that obscures the true dynamics of the fashion industry. Let’s reshape the narrative and foster a more equitable future for women in fashion.
How will you contribute to this movement?
Final oversight & edits by Amarissa.
Today’s writer…
Joy is a participant in Fashion Talk's Winter 2024 Student Writing Program. Aligned with our mission to uplift young voices in the fashion industry, we’re excited to share her voice with our community.
Get to know Joy here.
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